tool instructions

Cumberland Acoustic

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12 Pound Block Mold Instructions

Before we start, if your mold was shipped already assembled, remove the front by unscrewing the two black knobs. Now take the front off and the tray out. Now you are going to put it back together.

1. Place the tray in the mold, with the “handle” sticking out the front. (Never, ever make soap in this mold without the tray being in position.)

2. Put the front piece on the 2 anchor screws and screw the knobs on loosely (for now). Now apply downward pressure on the left side of the front piece, and screw the knob on tight. Apply the same downward pressure on the right side, and screw that knob on tight. Now try to pull out the tray. If it comes out easily, you’ll need to unscrew each of the knobs and reapply the downward pressure. This should take only a few seconds and will minimize leakage.

3. Line the bottom of the tray with the 12” mylar piece that came with it. (If you don’t want to wash and reuse the mylar every time, you can use Kabnet Wax -perfectly sized lightly waxed pieces of paper- available at Sam’s Club for a very reasonable price.)

4. Pour your traced soap into the mold.

5. Cover and insulate your mold for about 24 hours (or however long you normally insulate your soap.)

5. Unscrew the two black knobs and remove the front piece. (Some recipes of soap will require that you run a knife along the front and back edges to separate the soap from the mold, other recipes will simply allow the soap to pop right off.) Put your fingers into the handle and pull up slightly (separating the sides,) then out. Now turn the block upside down on your cutting surface and take the tray and sheet of wax paper or mylar off.

Now your soap is ready to cut.

Happy soaping!

12 Pound Divided Mold Instructions

Before we start, if your mold was shipped already assembled, remove the front by unscrewing the two black knobs. Take the dividers out. Now take the tray out. (You're getting to know your mold.)

1. Place the tray in the mold, with the “handle” sticking out the front.

3. Line the bottom of the tray with the 12” mylar piece that came with it. Now wrap the dividers with the smaller pieces of mylar, and tape at the top. One divider is wrapped in the suggested way as an example for you. Now slide the dividers into their slots. (This mold can be used with 0, 1, 2 or all 3 dividers.) (If don’t want to wash and reuse the mylar every time, you can use Kabnet Wax -perfectly sized lightly waxed pieces of paper- available at Sam’s Club for a very reasonable price.)

4. Pour your traced soap into the mold. (If you are pouring at a very light trace, you may wish to use the large rubber bands that came with the molds as an additional hold-down to insure no soap gets under the dividers. Just run these all the way around the mold, from front to back, running over the tops of the dividers before you pour.)

5. Cover and insulate your mold for about 24 hours (or however long you normally insulate your soap.)

6. Unscrew the two black knobs and remove the front piece. (Some recipes of soap will require that you run a knife along the front and back edges to separate the soap from the mold, other recipes will simply allow the soap to pop right off.)

Slide out the Dividers.

Now put your fingers into the handle and pull up slightly (separating the sides,) then out.

You now have either logs, or a block of soap. Take the bottom mylar off.

Now your soap is ready to cut.

When you are finished unmolding your soap, scrape off any soap, and clean the mold with a sponge or wet towel, so it's ready for next time. Make sure you store the dividers and the mylar sheets flat.

p.s.

If you want to swirl in your mold, simply pour the soap into the mold, swirl your soap, then slide the wrapped dividers into place. You will end up with logs of swirled soap.

Happy soaping!

Single Cutter Instructions

Congratulations on your purchase of the Cumberland Acoustic Single Soap Cutter. You will now be able to cut your wonderful newly made soap into even, consistent, professional looking logs and bars in only a fraction of the time it used to take.

Assembling this cutter is simple.

Your cutter was fully assembled and adjusted, then disassembled, prior to shipping. There are only two parts: The “base” and the “cutting arm”.

The only tool you will need is a Phillips Head screwdriver.

1) Put the base on a table in front of you, so that you can read the numbers on the scale, and the grid lines are coming straight at you.

2) Un-tape the two screws that are taped to the base backboard. Now pick up the cutting arm and un-tape the two screws that are sticking out of the wooden blocks on each side of the cutting arm.

3) Place the cutting arm so that the two blocks are behind the backboard, the wire is going through the slot in the backboard and the black foam handle is the closest thing to you. Line up the top screws with the holes in the blocks and line up the bottom screws with the holes in the backboard. Slightly tighten the top two, then the bottom two. Then finish up by tightening all four screws until they are nice and snug.

That’s it! You’ve done it!

Using this cutter is simple.

Tension the wire by turning the guitar tuner until the wire sings when it is plucked. (We recommend that you de-tension the wire when the cutter will be unused for a week or more.)

Put your block or log of soap on the cutter. Lift the handle, line up the soap, and pull the wire through the soap. Every once in a while, wipe the wire off with a wet rag, to keep the cut nice and smooth.

We have included an extra wire, (taped on the bottom of the cutter), in case one should break. If you need to replace a wire, simple take off the old one, put the loop of the new wire over the little screwhead at the front of the arm. Rout e the wire directly to the groove at the bottom of the back of the arm, and follow the groove up to the tuner hole. Slip the end of the wire through the tuner hole, and turn the tuner until the wire tightens up.

You may wish to cut the excess wire off. If you do, please wear eye protection, as flying pieces of wire can do great harm to your precious eyes.

Making soap is fun. Now cutting it can be too.

Now, go make some soap, and cut it.

Multi-Cutter Instructions

You will now be able to cut your wonderful, newly made soap into even, consistent, professional looking bars in only a fraction of the time it used to take.

Your cutter arrived from the factory partially tensioned to prevent damage during shipping. These wires need to be tightened before you attempt to cut any soap. Here’s how to tighten the wires:

· Put on safety glasses-(these wires can be sharp!)

· Notice the black pipe, in the back of the cutter, with the eye bolts holding the wire loops. To tighten the wires, simply hold the eye of the eyebolt with one hand, and turn the wing-nut clockwise with the other hand. (About 3 turns) If you finish with the “wings” going up-and-down, you will have more room to tighten the next wire. Be sure to tighten all six wing-nuts.

· Take off those safety glasses. That’s better.

· Now your cutter is ready to start working for you.

· Using this cutter is simple. Position the cutter so that the foam handle is right in front of you. Now, with your right hand, lift the handle up, so that the wires are straight up and down. Now take your soap log, and lay it on the cutter so the right side of the log touches the stop block on the right of the cutter, and the front of the log is against the front of the cutter. Now hold the foam handle and bring the wires down through the soap, until the wires can’t go any further. Lift the newly cut bars straight out the top, and set them aside. Lift the handle up and repeat the process.

Helpful hints:

1. If you wish, you can give the cutter a light coat of mineral oil to maintain the beauty of this fine tool, and to make it easier to clean.

2. Every once in a while, wipe the wires off with a wet rag, so that your cut remains smooth.

3. You can take the stop block off for cleaning, or if you want to cut in the middle of a log.

4. If you aren’t going to use your cutter for a few days, de-tension the wires a bit.

5. If your wires aren’t cutting through your log, tighten the wires a bit more.

6. We have included replacement wires (taped on the bottom), in case one should break. To replace a broken wire, locate the two wing-nuts that attach to the broken wire. Unscrew one wing-nut almost all the way. Take the other wing-nut completely off, and the eyebolt out. Now attach the new wire loop to the eyebolt that is still in the metal pipe. Route the wire through the corresponding slot in the front piece, and around the metal pin. Now continue the wire around the next metal pin, and through its slot. Put the end loop onto the free eyebolt, and re-insert the eyebolt back into the hole. Screw on the wing-nut, and tighten both wing-nuts until the new wire is at the same tension as all of the other wires.

Air Mold Instructions

Congratulations on your purchase of  the fabulous Cumberland Acoustic
Air Mold.  Please follow the instructions below for optimum performance.

Your mold comes with three components:
1.  Base with air valve and vertical tube
2.  Silicone Gasket        (This may be shipped in the tube)
3.  Plunger

  (You will also need a bike pump or air compressor with a "tire
inflator fitting" to unmold your soap or lotion bar.)

Place the Silicone Gasket onto the top of the vertical tube.  Using the
Plunger, push the Gasket down to the bottom of the tube.

Now spray the inside of the mold with vegetable oil, and spread the oil
around the entire inside of the tube with the fabric wrapped end of the
Plunger.

Pour your newly made Cold Process or slightly cooled M & P soap into
the vertical tube.

Let it sit in a safe place for 24 hours (or however you normally let
your soap sit in the mold).

Unscrew the protective cap from the valve, and securely hook the bike
pump or compressor fitting to the valve.  If your bike pump is the
clamp-on kind, make sure it is pushed all the way onto the valve before
you clamp it.

Now pump air into the mold, and after several pumps, your soap should
float out of the mold.

Troubleshooting:
1.Help!  I put the gasket in, oiled the mold, and my soap won't come
out!

These molds have been tested using many different soap recipes.
However, there may be some recipes that are particularly sticky.  If
you find your soap will not pump out of the mold, put the whole thing
into the freezer for a couple of hours, then rinse with hot water, and
pump it again.  The next time you make soap, you may choose to line the
mold using some parchment paper or freezer paper.

2. Help! I forgot to put the gasket in before I poured my soap into the
mold!

Okay, you are in trouble now.

Try putting the mold into the freezer
for a couple of hours, rinsing with hot water and pumping with the bike
pump. The soap may come out (when we first made these, we didn't even
have a gasket), but if the soap gets into the air hole, there won't be
enough air pressure build-up to pump out the soap. You will have to
scoop out your soap. Next time, put the gasket in.

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tool instructions